Stretch Knit
Posted in fabric on 07/29/2010 08:07 pm by admin| Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded. |
What is the difference between single knit and double knit stretch fabric?
My sewing machine manual has different instructions for sewing single knit and double knit stretch knit fabric. But it doesn't describe what the difference is between the two fabrics and I don't know. Can someone please explain the difference between the two fabrics?
Also, if you have any suggestions or expertise on making a smooth, stretchy hem on these fabrics that would help. My experimenting hasn't been great, my hems always roll up. I just got a new Kenmore and I really want to learn how to do things right!
Common machine knitting constructions:
http://www.wool.com/Knitting_Knitting_Common-Wool-Knitted-Structures.htm
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4584/a-primer-on-sewing-knits
I start beginners on interlocks or other stable knit because the single knits require much gentler handling.
Rolling hems on jersey are pretty common, due to the construction of the fabric -- hey, it rolls on the crossgrain when cut!
Flipping hems can often be helped with lowering thread tension and/or double needle stitching, increased stitch length and better fabric handling.
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why_do_hems_roll_up/
Personally, I don't do anything different in sewing single vs. double knits... handle gently, stabilize, sew some samples on the same grain so you can optimize before you actually stitch a seam on the garment.
If you've got access to a serger, try that for knits. The differential feed helps in getting nice flat seams. If you need a stretchy hem on knits, your choices are pretty much stretch blindhem, coverstitch or twin needle mock-coverstitch with something like wooly nylon or polyarn in the bobbin.
Really good book on sewing knits (now, alas, out of print, so try interlibrary loan): http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42397098&referer=brief_results
(print out the first page and hand it in with the interlibrary loan form -- I've found the ILL librarians love you for it.)
Two other books to consider, especially if you're a newbie to sewing:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0913212199
http://www.amazon.com/Stretch-Guide-Sewing-Creative-Machine/dp/0801985935